Surfing Puerto Viejo & the south

Beach Break · Best Dec-Mar · 2-6 ft · Crowd 1/5

Swell NE-E

Playa Negra is the black-sand beach at Cahuita, north of Puerto Viejo. On a north-east swell it has tapering walls and holds a bit more size than the beaches around it, which suits improvers and longboarders.

Cahuita is quiet and better known for its national park, with coral reef, sloths and howler monkeys, than for surfing, so the line-up stays empty even when Puerto Viejo is busy.

It's at its best on a north-east swell from December to March, and Cahuita has small hotels and restaurants.

Right Reef · Best Dec-Mar · 3-12 ft · Crowd 4/5

NE-E swell mid-winter, morning slack, mid to high tide

Salsa Brava is a right over sharp, shallow coral in Puerto Viejo, and the heaviest wave in Costa Rica. It holds any size of Caribbean swell, with a steep drop into the first peak and a fast, hollow wall that sometimes links to a second peak. A short left also breaks.

It needs the winter north-east to east swells, or a hurricane swell, and is best early in the morning before the wind picks up. Low tide is dangerous over the coral. From December to March it's consistent and crowded with locals and expats.

Further out, Long Shoal has steep takeoffs and fewer people, but it's a 3 km paddle or a boat ride. Bring a step-up board.

Beach Break · Best Dec-Mar · 2-6 ft · Crowd 3/5

Swell NE-E, all tides

Playa Cocles is the beach just south of Puerto Viejo, with soft beach-break peaks that suit beginners. At the north end, next to a small island, a short left breaks at mid tide and has a bit more push until the swell gets overhead.

It needs a north-east swell, mostly from December to March. Surf schools and board rental are right on the beach. Experienced surfers tend to go to Salsa Brava, the reef a few minutes north.

It's the main learning beach around Puerto Viejo, with surf schools and lifeguards. The currents can be strong, so swim near the lifeguard towers. Puerto Viejo, a short bike ride away, has the restaurants and nightlife.

Right Reef · Best Dec-Mar · 2-8 ft · Crowd 2/5

Swell NE-E

Little Shoal is a coral shelf at the south end of Playa Cocles, mostly rights with a few lefts. It's less heavy than Salsa Brava and a good first reef for surfers moving on from the beach.

It needs a north-east swell. The coral sits close to the surface at low tide, so mid tide is safer, and booties help. The water is warm and clear, and Puerto Viejo is a few minutes away.

It's best on a north-east swell from December to March. It's a good step between the beach at Cocles and the heavier Salsa Brava. Puerto Viejo is a short bike ride away.

Right Reef · Best Dec-Mar · 2-6 ft · Crowd 2/5

Swell NE-E

Punta Uva is a reef and sand set-up in a sheltered cove south of Puerto Viejo, with rainforest down to the water. The scattered peaks can get hollow but shoulder off quickly, which suits intermediates, and on a good north-east swell the point lines up into playful rights.

It's easy to reach from Puerto Viejo, and on flat days it's one of the best swimming beaches on the coast.

It's at its best on a north-east swell from December to March. Puerto Viejo is about fifteen minutes north by bike.

Right Reef · Best Dec-Mar · 2-6 ft · Crowd 1/5

Swell NE-E

Manzanillo is the last village before the Panama border on the Caribbean coast. The beach breaks pick up small swells but are exposed to the wind. Off the headlands there are right reefs with better shape, reached by walking through the jungle of the Gandoca-Manzanillo wildlife refuge.

It needs a north-east swell. The village is quiet, the refuge has jungle, mangroves and coral, and few surfers make the trip.

It's best on a north-east swell from December to March, and Puerto Viejo is about half an hour north.