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Playgrounds (North), Indonesia

Indonesia surf guide

Surfing Playgrounds (North)

Kandui, Rifles and E-Bay in the north of the islands.

8 waves · Best Apr-Oct · Intermediate, Advanced, Pro · From $80 a day

About seventy islands off West Sumatra with more quality reef waves in a small area than almost anywhere else, including Macaronis, HT's and Kandui. You stay on a charter boat or in a land camp and surf several times a day.

LevelsIntermediate, Advanced, Pro
Best seasonApr-Oct
RegionMentawai Islands
Daily budget$80–350
Nearest airportPDG

The waves at Playgrounds (North)

Kandui LeftPro

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 4-10 ft · Crowd 3/5

SW swell, SE-E wind

Kandui Left is a very fast left barrel on the Karangmajat reef in the north Mentawais. It runs for hundreds of metres, and you have to pump hard just to stay in the barrel.

Even the best surfers in the world rate it as one of the hardest barrels to make from start to finish. Most rides end partway through, and those are still very good waves.

It needs 4-8ft of SW swell, SE-E winds and enough tide to cover the coral. The takeoff zone is small and the resort and charter crowd is very good, so the rotation moves quickly. Bring booties and spare boards. It's the reason many boats come to this part of the islands.

Full guide to Kandui Left

RiflesAdvanced / Pro

Right Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 4-10 ft · Crowd 3/5

SW swell, S-SE wind

Rifles is a right on the Karangmajat reef, across from Kandui Left. On its day it's one of the best rights in Indonesia, with barrel sections one after another all the way down the reef.

The waves crack down the line fast, and rides can be very long when a clean SW swell comes in with S/SE winds and the right tide. It's slightly easier than Kandui and holds size well, so every regular-footer in the area heads here when the forecast is right.

Sit at the top peak, watch a couple of sets first and don't go for every wave. Resort boats and charters take turns, so the lineup is busy but well organised.

Full guide to Rifles

E-BayAdvanced

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-8 ft · Crowd 3/5

SW swell, N-NE wind

E-Bay is a hollow left off the reef at Nyang Nyang island in the north Mentawais. It barrels from the peak, opens into a wall for turns and then barrels again on the inside, over reef with enough water.

It's one of the most consistent waves in the area. It works in N-NE winds that ruin the other spots, picks up smaller swells and goes from 3ft to 8ft. Charter crews count on it when nothing else is working.

It's the place where advanced surfers get Mentawai barrels without the speed of Kandui. Boats anchor in the channel close to the wave. Everyday shortboard, step-up when the swell is bigger.

Full guide to E-Bay

HideawaysAdvanced / Pro

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-8 ft · Crowd 2/5

SW swell, SE wind

Hideaways is a hollow left in the Playgrounds area of the Mentawai Islands. It comes out of deep water, hits a shallow section of reef and throws a barrel towards the channel.

It's one of the few waves here that handles south winds, so it works when other spots are blown out. At low tide it gets very shallow, so mid tide is safer. It's for intermediate surfers and above who are comfortable on reef.

Charters and resorts in Playgrounds reach it by small boat. Take a step-up when the swell is big.

Full guide to Hideaways

Bank VaultsAdvanced / Pro

Right Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 4-10 ft · Crowd 2/5

SW swell, S-SE wind

Bank Vaults is a thick right over a shallow shelf in the north Mentawais that handles big swells. When the forecast shows 8-10ft and the lighter waves close out, this reef starts to work.

The peak is steep and moves around, and the barrel throws wide and lands hard on the shelf. Even at double overhead it can be ridden, but only by surfers used to big waves and with a strong paddle.

South in the swell helps it bend in, and S-SE winds clean it up. Keep an eye on the tide. Charters anchor wide and take surfers to the takeoff by dinghy. Take a proper step-up, 6'6" or longer for most people.

Full guide to Bank Vaults

Beng BengsIntermediate / Advanced

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-6 ft · Crowd 2/5

SW swell, SE wind

Beng Bengs is a left in the Playgrounds area with rampy, forgiving walls over reef that isn't too shallow. It's a wave for turns and airs rather than barrels.

After a morning at Kandui or Bank Vaults, many crews come here to relax. It works at 3-6ft with soft shoulders, and it's often working on smaller swells when the heavier waves are too small.

It's where intermediate and advanced surfers on a charter get to surf a proper Mentawai wave instead of watching from the boat. It handles NE winds as well. Take the shortboard you turn best on.

Full guide to Beng Bengs

NipussiIntermediate / Advanced

Right Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-6 ft · Crowd 2/5

SW swell, S wind

Nipussi is a short right next to Bank Vaults. It's about 50 metres of wave: a wedging peak that jumps up suddenly, one pump and an end bowl for a big turn or a quick barrel.

Small swells of 3-4ft that barely move the bigger reefs arrive here with some power, so it's a good option on small days or between sessions. Rides are short, but you catch a lot of waves.

The takeoff is tight, so sit off the visible boil and take your turn. The inside is shallower than it looks. It likes south winds and works on most tides. Standard shortboard.

Full guide to Nipussi

PitstopsIntermediate / Advanced

Right Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-6 ft · Crowd 2/5

SW swell, SE-S wind

Pitstops is a right across the channel from E-Bay. Charters used to stop here between the better-known waves, and plenty of crews end up staying.

It has clean walls in sections and gets hollow at lower tides: a drop at the peak, a middle section for turns and an inside that barrels. At 3-6ft on SE-S winds it's reliable, with consistent takeoffs and enough water over the reef.

With E-Bay two minutes away, you have a left and a right from the same anchorage. Mornings are glassy, and it handles afternoon wind better than the passes. Everyday shortboard.

Full guide to Pitstops

Where to stay in Playgrounds (North)

Everything here is a full-board package including speedboat transfers from the Padang ferry, there are no walk-in rooms. Land camps beat charter boats on price and give you the same waves. For June-August book 6-12 months out; shoulder season (March-May, Sept-Nov) has waves and space. Known places: Kandui Resort and the more upmarket Kandui Villas are both on Karangmajat island, in the middle of the Playgrounds waves.

Surf camps in Playgrounds (North)

We are adding local camps we trust to this page. Run a surf camp or surf house here? We would like to hear from you.

Before
you go

Book ahead

Charters and resorts for May to September sell out 6-12 months ahead, so book early. Cancellation lists exist for the flexible. The public-ferry budget route needs only days of notice.

The water

No hospitals in the chain, evacuation means 4+ hours by boat to Padang. You need surf travel insurance that covers marine evacuation, and good operators will ask for it. Bring seasickness tablets and a first-aid kit for reef cuts.

Who it suits

Booking without evacuation insurance. Overestimating your level: the waves are heavy and help is far away. The crossing on the public ferry in big weather if you're time-tight.

Money

Bring everything you'll need in cash from Padang: crew tips (plan ~5% of charter), extras, village purchases. Tuapejat has the islands' only ATMs, and they can run dry. Resorts settle balances by card or transfer beforehand.

Best time to surf Playgrounds (North)

Playgrounds (North) works best around Apr-Oct.

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Indonesia or Costa Rica? Compared for surfing

Mentawai Islands

Getting to Playgrounds (North)

There are hardly any roads. The Mentawais run on boats. Everything starts in Padang, West Sumatra, and from there it's ferries, resort speedboats and charters between the islands.

Fly to Padang (PDG)

$60-150

Reach Padang via Jakarta or Kuala Lumpur. Most itineraries need a night in the city before the early ferry; resorts arrange the hotel and harbour transfer. Book flights with a buffer day each side of the ferry; delays cascade out here.

Mentawai Fast ferry

$25-40

The fast catamaran covers Padang to the islands in 3-5 hours, running several days a week. Seats sell out in high season, and resorts and camps pre-book for their guests. Take seasickness tablets 30 minutes before you leave; the crossing is often rough.

Overnight public ferry

$8-15

The slow boats (deck space or basic cabins) cross overnight in 10-12 hours. It's cheap and it's how the islanders travel. Bring a sleeping mat and snacks. Only worth it on a loose itinerary; one cancelled sailing can cost you two days.

Resort & camp speedboat transfers

$50-150

From Tuapejat or Siberut, camps run their own speedboats for the last 1-3 hours to the breaks. They're always included or pre-arranged; there's no walk-up option. Put your electronics in a dry bag for the transfer; you will get wet.

Day charters between breaks

$150-300 per boat

Land-camp guests charter local speedboats by the day to reach breaks beyond the house waves. Shared between a group, it's the local version of a rental car. Agree fuel, hours and spots before leaving the beach, and take the captain's local knowledge seriously.

Beyond the surf

Karangmajat sandbars

Nature

Bone-white sandbars rise out of turquoise water between the Playgrounds islets at low tide, a popular picnic stop.

Siberut culture day trip

Culture

Cross to Siberut's rivers with a guide to visit a traditional uma clan house, sago, tattoos and the sikerei shaman tradition, very different from life on the boat.

Kandui reef snorkelling

Marine life

The fringing reefs around the Karangmajat islands are shallow, clear and busy with turtles and reef fish. Best on morning high tide before the wind.

GT fishing grounds

Fishing

The channels through Playgrounds hold serious giant trevally, camps run popping trips when the swell drops, and you might eat what you catch.