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South Mentawai, Indonesia

Indonesia surf guide

Surfing South Mentawai

Macaronis, HT's and Thunders in the south.

8 waves · Best Apr-Oct · Intermediate, Advanced, Pro · From $80 a day

About seventy islands off West Sumatra with more quality reef waves in a small area than almost anywhere else, including Macaronis, HT's and Kandui. You stay on a charter boat or in a land camp and surf several times a day.

LevelsIntermediate, Advanced, Pro
Best seasonApr-Oct
RegionMentawai Islands
Daily budget$80–350
Nearest airportPDG

The waves at South Mentawai

MacaronisIntermediate / Advanced / Pro

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-8 ft · Crowd 4/5

SW swell, NW-N wind

Macaronis is a left in a mangrove corner of North Pagai, and it's often described as one of the most fun waves in the world. It breaks the same way all day: a barrel section at the takeoff and then a long wall for turns.

It suits a wide range of surfers. Good tube riders get barrelled on the first section, others use the end section for turns and airs, and strong intermediates can have a great time on the shoulder. 3-6ft is the best size, with NW-N winds, and because the takeoff is so predictable the crowd takes turns fairly easily.

The Macaronis Resort sits on the wave and many charters stop here, so you won't have it to yourself. Bring your best shortboard and spare fins, because the inside is hard on them.

Full guide to Macaronis

Lance's Right (HT's)Advanced / Pro

Right Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-10 ft · Crowd 4/5

SW swell, N-NW wind

Lance's Right, also called HT's after the hollow trees that used to mark it, breaks off Katiet on Sipora. It's a clear, hollow right barrel, and you've probably seen it in surf photos and ads.

It throws right away at the peak, there's a big barrel in the middle and then a very shallow section at the end called the Surgeon's Table, which has injured a lot of good surfers. 4-8ft of SW swell, N-NW winds and mid tide give the best conditions. On bigger days the takeoff moves and it gets more dangerous.

The lineup is full of resort guests, charter crews and sometimes photo shoots, so manners matter. Bring a step-up and wear booties.

Full guide to Lance's Right (HT's)

ThundersAdvanced

Left & Right Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 4-10 ft · Crowd 2/5

S-SW swell, NE wind

Thunders is a heavy left on the South Pagai reef. From the boat you can hear the sets break, and on the wave you get long, powerful walls that need a lot of stamina.

It picks up more swell than anywhere else in the south. When other spots are small, Thunders is often still overhead. Sections keep coming, with room for turns and barrels when the tide is right. NE winds clean it up, and it works from 4ft to 10ft.

You can only reach it by boat, so the lineup is usually just the people on your boat and one or two others. Bring a step-up.

Full guide to Thunders

GreenbushPro

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 4-10 ft · Crowd 2/5

SW swell, E-NE wind

Greenbush is a left on South Pagai that goes from deep water to very shallow reef in one step. It throws a thick barrel over coral, with the jungle right behind it.

It's for expert tube riders only. The takeoff is critical and there is no shoulder: the wave is the barrel. Guides only take people there when everything is right, with 4-8ft of SW swell, E-NE wind, the right tide and a capable group.

Photographers love it for the jungle backdrop. Bring a barrel board and a spare, wear booties and think about a helmet.

Full guide to Greenbush

Lance's LeftAdvanced

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-10 ft · Crowd 3/5

SW swell, NE-E wind

Lance's Left is on the other side of the peninsula from Lance's Right, on Sipora. It's less famous but handles more size and more wind, with long, lined-up walls, and many people surf it more than the Right.

You take off on a shifting peak, link three or four sections and finish deep in the bay. At 4-8ft it's fine for advanced surfers; above 10ft it's the main big-wave option in the south. It works in NE-E winds, which blow out the Right, so the two waves cover each other.

There are several takeoff spots, so the crowd spreads out. It sometimes barrels, but mostly it's a wave for turns. Bring a step-up with good paddle.

Full guide to Lance's Left

TelescopesAdvanced

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-8 ft · Crowd 3/5

SW swell, SE-E wind

Telescopes is a left in central Sipora that runs down the reef in a very regular way: from the takeoff you can see the next three sections lining up ahead of you.

It's one of the best lefts in the islands for turns, with barrels at the top and on the inside, and it's predictable enough to plan your next move. It works at 3-8ft on SE-E winds, and mid tide makes more waves makeable.

It's well known and there's only one takeoff, so it gets crowded. Go early or time your sessions between charter groups. Bring a fast shortboard.

Full guide to Telescopes

IcelandAdvanced

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 4-10 ft · Crowd 2/5

SW swell, E-NE wind

Iceland is a big left in central Sipora, lumpy and shifting, breaking over deep reef that lets the full Indian Ocean swell through.

When swells reach 6-10ft and the more precise waves max out, Iceland keeps working, with long, powerful walls, some hollow sections and big paddle-in drops. The lumps and shifts mean experience and positioning count for a lot.

E-NE winds clean it up and the channel is wide. It doesn't look great on camera, which keeps the crowd small. Bring a proper step-up, around 6'8".

Full guide to Iceland

ScarecrowsAdvanced

Left Reef · Best Apr-Oct · 3-8 ft · Crowd 2/5

SW swell, NE wind

Scarecrows is a shifty left peak in central Sipora. From the channel it looks easy, but the takeoffs wedge and the inside gets fast, and it catches out people who aren't paying attention.

For intermediate and advanced surfers it's a good wave: peaks that split both ways off the wedge, fast sections that force you to choose your line, and conditions that change a lot with the tide. It works at 3-8ft, and NE winds are fine.

When Telescopes is crowded and Iceland is too lumpy, it takes the overflow and often does better than expected, especially on medium swells. Everyday shortboard.

Full guide to Scarecrows

Where to stay in South Mentawai

The south splits into two hubs: Katiet under Lance's Right/HT's, and Macaronis' resort-and-anchorage bay on Pagai. All stays are full-board with transfers arranged from Tuapejat's ferry. Cash only south of Tuapejat, bring more rupiah than you think you need. Known places: Hollow Tree's Resort sits on Katiet beach with Lance's Right (HT's) in front and Lance's Left a short walk away, and Macaronis Resort is on the bay at Macaronis on North Pagai.

Surf camps in South Mentawai

We are adding local camps we trust to this page. Run a surf camp or surf house here? We would like to hear from you.

Before
you go

Book ahead

Charters and resorts for May to September sell out 6-12 months ahead, so book early. Cancellation lists exist for the flexible. The public-ferry budget route needs only days of notice.

The water

No hospitals in the chain, evacuation means 4+ hours by boat to Padang. You need surf travel insurance that covers marine evacuation, and good operators will ask for it. Bring seasickness tablets and a first-aid kit for reef cuts.

Who it suits

Booking without evacuation insurance. Overestimating your level: the waves are heavy and help is far away. The crossing on the public ferry in big weather if you're time-tight.

Money

Bring everything you'll need in cash from Padang: crew tips (plan ~5% of charter), extras, village purchases. Tuapejat has the islands' only ATMs, and they can run dry. Resorts settle balances by card or transfer beforehand.

Best time to surf South Mentawai

South Mentawai works best around Apr-Oct.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
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Indonesia or Costa Rica? Compared for surfing

Mentawai Islands

Getting to South Mentawai

There are hardly any roads. The Mentawais run on boats. Everything starts in Padang, West Sumatra, and from there it's ferries, resort speedboats and charters between the islands.

Fly to Padang (PDG)

$60-150

Reach Padang via Jakarta or Kuala Lumpur. Most itineraries need a night in the city before the early ferry; resorts arrange the hotel and harbour transfer. Book flights with a buffer day each side of the ferry; delays cascade out here.

Mentawai Fast ferry

$25-40

The fast catamaran covers Padang to the islands in 3-5 hours, running several days a week. Seats sell out in high season, and resorts and camps pre-book for their guests. Take seasickness tablets 30 minutes before you leave; the crossing is often rough.

Overnight public ferry

$8-15

The slow boats (deck space or basic cabins) cross overnight in 10-12 hours. It's cheap and it's how the islanders travel. Bring a sleeping mat and snacks. Only worth it on a loose itinerary; one cancelled sailing can cost you two days.

Resort & camp speedboat transfers

$50-150

From Tuapejat or Siberut, camps run their own speedboats for the last 1-3 hours to the breaks. They're always included or pre-arranged; there's no walk-up option. Put your electronics in a dry bag for the transfer; you will get wet.

Day charters between breaks

$150-300 per boat

Land-camp guests charter local speedboats by the day to reach breaks beyond the house waves. Shared between a group, it's the local version of a rental car. Agree fuel, hours and spots before leaving the beach, and take the captain's local knowledge seriously.

Beyond the surf

Katiet village

Culture

The little village behind Hollow Tree's, kids on soft-tops in the shorebreak, sago palms and church bells. Buy coconuts, say hello, keep it respectful.

Tuapejat town

Practical stop

Sipora's main town, with the last ATM, pharmacy and reliable phone signal in the south. Stock up on the way through.

Awera island beaches

Beach

A short hop from Tuapejat: empty white-sand beaches, a slow right-hander offshore and sunset views back across the strait.

Pagai islands by boat

Exploration

The far south, Macaronis' bay, jungle rivers and village harbours that see more supply boats than tourists. Day-trip from camps or on a charter run.