Surfing Sawarna (Ciantir)

Sawarna, at Ciantir beach, is a big bay that takes a lot of swell. It has two kilometres of powerful beach break and a right off the reef at the western end when the swell lines up, with palm trees and cliffs around it.

The peaks change with the sandbanks, and you can get wedges, fast walls and proper barrels. It's usually bigger than Bali, and 5ft here is serious, with rips. Surf it in the morning, because the afternoon sea breeze ruins it.

Homestays are very cheap and close to the beach. Phone signal is patchy and there's no nightlife. Bring a shortboard and a step-up if a real swell is coming. Cimaja is about 90 minutes away.