Panama surf guide

Surfing Bastimentos & the outer isles

Silverbacks' big-wave right and wild Wizard Beach

2 waves · Best Dec-Mar · Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced, Pro · From $25 a day

Panama's Caribbean island jewel: a mangrove-and-reef archipelago of nine major islands off the north-west coast, just 32km from Costa Rica. Seasonal but consistent swell lights up quality, non-tide-dependent coral reefs, from the barrels of Isla Colón to the heavyweight right of Silverbacks, all wrapped in Afro-Caribbean island culture, cheap living and less crowd than Costa Rica. Two slender swell windows a year (Dec-Mar and Jun-Aug) power it.

LevelsBeginner, Intermediate, Advanced, Pro

Best seasonDec-Mar

RegionBocas del Toro

Daily budget$25–183

Nearest airportBOC

The waves at Bastimentos & the outer isles

SilverbacksAdvanced / Pro

Right Reef · Best Dec-Mar · 6-20 ft · Crowd 2/5

Big NE swell, 7'+ board, all tides

Silverbacks is a right over coral reef off Bastimentos, and the big-wave spot of Bocas del Toro. Most of the year it doesn't break. It needs the surrounding beaches to be overhead, and then it ledges up into a short, thick barrel with a long drop. It holds waves of 20 feet and more.

It's only for experienced surfers who are comfortable with late, steep takeoffs. The peak shifts and the hold-downs are long. Take a board of 7 feet or more, and a spare if you have one, because it breaks a lot of boards. You reach it by boat.

Full guide to Silverbacks

First Beach (Wizard Beach)Beginner / Intermediate

Beach Break · Best Dec-Mar · 2-6 ft · Crowd 1/5

Swell NE-E

First Beach, also called Wizard Beach, is on the north side of Bastimentos. It picks up more swell than anywhere else in Bocas, but it's a fairly basic beach break with some patches of reef.

To get there you take a boat to the south side of the island and walk about 20 minutes across the fields, longer when the trail is muddy. It's the place to go when everything else is flat, and the beach, with jungle right behind it, is one of the most beautiful in the archipelago. Usually there's nobody else out.

Full guide to First Beach (Wizard Beach)

Where to stay in Bastimentos & the outer isles

Bastimentos is boat-only from Bocas town ($3-5 water taxi). It holds Silverbacks (big-wave right, gun and boat essential) and the beautiful First/Wizard Beach (a boat-and-walk mission). Stay here for the beaches and the wild vibe, or day-trip from Bocas town. No shops, bring everything.

Surf camps in Bastimentos & the outer isles

We are adding local camps we trust to this page. Run a surf camp or surf house here? We would like to hear from you.

List your camp

Before
you go

Book ahead

Bocas town and Bastimentos have plenty of hostels and lodges. They're busier in the Dec-Mar swell season but easy to book. Rental boards in Bocas town are limited, so bring your own good board (and a Silverbacks gun).

The water

Bocas del Toro province has a low malaria risk, so ask a travel doctor and use repellent. Reef boots are wise for Paunch and Dumpers' sharp coral. Sessions can turn into missions (no drivers, boats out of fuel), so bring water and patience.

Who it suits

Don't paddle out at Silverbacks without a big enough board. It snaps boards and holds people down. Boards over 6' may be refused on the small planes. The city feels safe, but keep an eye on gear on the boats.

Money

Panama uses the US dollar (Balboa). ATMs in Bocas town are reliable but can run dry, so carry cash, especially for the islands and boat drivers.

Best time to surf Bastimentos & the outer isles

Bastimentos & the outer isles works best around Dec-Mar.

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec

PrimeGoodQuiet

Costa Rica or Panama? Compared for surfing

A wave on a palm-lined beach in Bocas del Toro — Photo: Evan Kirby evankirby2, CC0

Getting to Bastimentos & the outer isles

Fly from Panama City or come overland via Almirante and a water taxi. Once here you barely need transport, Bocas town is tiny, and boats handle everything else.

Fly to Bocas (BOC)

$50-90

Air Panama flies Panama City direct to Bocas del Toro (BOC) in about an hour. It's the easy way in, though boards over 6' may be refused on the small planes. Book board space ahead and check the size limit, because the planes are small.

Bus + water taxi

$23 + $3

From Panama City, a bus to Almirante (about 10h) then a water taxi across to Isla Colón. From Costa Rica, cross at Sixaola/Guabito. The overland is cheap but long; the flight is worth it if your budget stretches.

Water taxi

$3-8 per hop

Small boats are the transport here, share taxis to Bluff and Paunch, boats to Careñeros, Bastimentos ($3-5) and Silverbacks. Ask the driver to collect you to avoid the walk back. Agree the pick-up when you're dropped off, and budget a boat for Silverbacks safety.

Walk / bike

free-$5

Bocas town is small and flat, so you can walk everywhere, and bikes cover the nearer spots on Isla Colón. The town is tiny; save the boats for the island breaks.

Shared taxi

$1-5

Shared taxis run Isla Colón's one road to Bluff and Paunch cheaply, flag one on the main street. Handy for the road breaks; boats for everything else.

Beyond the surf

Red Frog Beach

Beach

The famous jungle-backed beach on Bastimentos, home to the tiny red poison-dart frogs it's named for.

Bastimentos National Marine Park

Nature

Coral reefs, mangroves and the Zapatillas Keys, protected islands with clear water for snorkelling and empty sand.

Old Bank village

Culture

The Afro-Caribbean village on Bastimentos, calypso, patois and a slow island rhythm a boat-hop from Bocas town.